Southern Style: Portland, Maine

Thursday morning around 7:00 AM we left Kennebunkport heading to Portland. The weather was overcast with a mild breeze; however the wind was to pick up as afternoon approached and rain was also moving in. The 4 hour cruise into Portland was just right. By the time we were heading into Casco Bay which surrounds Portland, the wind was just picking up. Our timing was good as we were not docked long before the fog also rolled in suddenly. Nice to be tied up and secure. It rained on and off fairly heavy Thursday later in the day and during the overnight. Although it remained overcast, the rain did end by noon Friday.

Keith and I walked down Commercial street to "Becky's Diner" Friday around 11:00 AM for brunch. This was a true Portland diner and perfect for brunch. So popular we waited about 45 minutes for a table.

Becky's Diner

It is probably a good time to make note of the Down east accent we are finding in the area. The most noticeable quirk is the way they treat "r" around here. For locals the "r" becomes "ah" or "aw". For example: "I brought some good lobsters home and dropped them on the porch before I parked the car by the barn" becomes..........I brawght some wicked good lobstahs home and drawpped 'em on the pawch befoah I pahked the cah by the bawn. And they make fun of how Southerns talk.

Saturday for lunch we went to Eventide Oyster Company. A cool, eclectic place with 14 different oysters on the menu. They also do small plates of unique seafood preparations. We of course had to try several things besides just their lobster rolls.

Eventide oysters

Tuna Toro

Grilled Octopus

Saturday we also had a tour booked of the greater Portland area. It was nice as it stopped at 3 different lighthouses in the area. One was the iconic Portland Head Light, one of the most photographed lighthouses in the country.

Portland Head Light

Portland Head Light is Maine's oldest lighthouse. First lit in 1791 with 16 whale oil lamps, the original tower was 72 feet from base to lantern deck. President George Washington approved the appointment of Captain Joseph Greenleaf, an American Revolution veteran, as the first keeper. Greenleaf received no salary the first two years and was instead compensated with the rights to farm and fish the property and live in the keeper's house rent free. By 1793 he was granted an annual salary of $160. In 1865 the tower was raised an additional 20 feet and a 2nd order Fresnel lens was installed. There was a lighthouse keeper until 1989. Today the light and fog horn are automated and maintained by the US Coast Guard. The remainder of the property and surrounding park are managed by the town of Cape Elizabeth, ME.

Spring Point Ledge Light was our next stop. This light was constructed in 1897 to mark a dangerous obstruction along the west shipping channel into Portland harbor. It is known as a sparkplug or caisson lighthouse meaning it rests on a concrete or metal caisson. This type of light became popular in the late 1800's as a cheaper alternative to the screw-pile light which rested on piles driven into the sandy or muddy bottom. Spring Point Ledge Light stands 54 feet tall.

Spring Point Ledge Light

Bug Light was our final lighthouse of the day. Bug Light is located in Portland Harbor and stands at the site of a major shipyard building Liberty Ships during WWII. Approximately 30,000 people were employed at the yard between 1941-45. The yard built some 266 ships during this time. Now it is an 9 acre park. The light was built in 1875 and called Bug Light due to its small stature at just 24 feet. It was designed by architect Thomas Ustick Walter who also designed the US Capital Dome in Washington, DC. He designed very intricate details on the light which is quite unusual for most lighthouses.

Bug Light