Thursday, July 25, 2019

Castine, Buck's Harbor, and Swans Island


     We have really gotten into the true “downeast” area of Maine now.  Been on mooring balls for several days with no cell service and no internet, so it took me a bit until I could download pictures and post a blog.  It has certainly been worth it however.  What an experience.   

     We left Belfast, Maine Monday morning July 22nd saying goodbye to our travel companions on “Kiwi III” and “Miss Darlin”.  They will be heading back south, and we plan to continue exploring Maine for another month or so.  

Young's Lobster Pound in Belfast the site of our dinner Sunday night

      Our next stop after Belfast was Castine.  Castine has been the home to people of many nations. Several Native American nations as well as France, Britain, Holland, and colonial America all had settlements in this area over the years.  It has been continuously occupied since the 1620's.  The town was named after Baron Jean Vincent d’Abbadie de St. Castine, a French nobleman and adventurer who established a trading post here in the 1670's.  He married the daughter of the chief of the local tribe of Tarratine Natives, with whom he had at least two sons.  It was also the site of several forts, most notable Fort George, a British fort built in 1779.  The remains of this fort are some earthen walls that the public is still able to explore.

     It was the time between the end of the War of 1812 and the Civil War that were Castine’s most prosperous.  That prosperity came from the sea in the form of fishing, salt, and ship building.  There was a time when nearly 500 fishing vessels could be found in Castine’s harbor.  Over 100 commercial sailing vessels were also built here.  According to one source, in 1850 Castine had the second highest per capita wealth of any city or town in the United States.

     After the Civil War the fishing vessels were replaced with steamboats carrying tourist and summer visitors to Castine's hotels and summer cottages.  Today the town continues to be a place for summer visitors and vacationers.  The Maine Maritime Academy is also located in Castine which offers degrees in engineering, transportation, and management.  The academy’s 13,000 ton, 500 foot long training ship “State of Maine” dominates the harbor.

The ship, State of Maine in Castine harbor (in the rain)

Dyce Head Lighthouse in Castine 

     We had quite a bit of rain while at Castine, but were still able to see the town before it started.  It rained most of the afternoon and even into the next morning.  We left the harbor around 9:00 AM just as the rain stopped.

     Our next stop after Castine was Buck’s Harbor.  We had a mooring ball here.  There is not much at Buck’s Harbor; however by about noon the weather cleared up and was fantastic.  We motored the dinghy around in the afternoon searching for seals and other wildlife.  We covered 9 miles in our dinghy excursion. 

On our dinghy ride looking back into the harbor

Lighthouse at Little Deer Island (seen from the dinghy)

We saw seals


We also saw two eagles, this one let us get close with the dinghy

Sunset in Buck's Harbor as seen from the back of Southern Style

There is one small restaurant at the harbor and the dock master said it was very good.  We decided to give it a try and had the best mussels we have ever eaten.  They were just wonderful.

From Buck’s Harbor we traveled about 23 miles to Swans Island.  This island is truly a lobstermen’s working island.  The lobster traps are so thick that it was challenging to get into the harbor. 

Looks like rainbow sprinkles across the harbor but it is lobster traps.

Swans Island 

The population of the island is around 380 people, most of whom are lobster fishermen/women.  Even the  kids get in on the fishing during the summer. 

Kids checking lobster traps

     There is a lighthouse and some walking trails but that is about all.  Oh, but I forgot to mention ; there are lobsters to purchase through their lobster co-op.  Because this is about as close to direct to consumer as you can get, we bought several lobsters.

Our sink full of lobsters from the Swans Island Lobster Co-op


Southern Style on a mooring ball at Swans Island among the lobster buoys

This is how you pay for your mooring ball.  Notice the plastic soda bottle along side the buoy.  Open and insert money, close top tightly, done.

Thursday we are headed to Mount Desert Island and the Acadia National Park.  I cannot wait.


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