Mount Desert Island

We arrived on Mount Desert Island on Thursday morning around 11:00 AM.  This island is home to Acadia National Park.  This unique and beautiful park was first established in 1916 by then President Woodrow Wilson.  It was originally named Sieur de Monts National Monument.  The name was changed to Acadia National Park in 1929.  It was Charles Buckman Dorr, an American preservationist, that is considered the father of Acadia National Park.  He spent most of his adult life overseeing the park's formation and expansion.  It was his vision that ensured the land would be protected and preserved for future generations.  John D. Rockefeller Jr. donated money and oversaw the construction of miles of carriage roads throughout the park between 1915-1933.  Today it is slightly over 49,000 acres with miles of hiking trails and carriage roads in addition to the main paved Park Loop Road.  The average summer temperature is 67 degrees F and the average winter temp. is 27 degrees F.  Over 3.5 million people visited the park last year.

Our first two days was on the western side of the island in Southwest Harbor.  This is called the "quiet side" of Acadia.  It is more out of the main portion of the park with fewer tourists.  There are still some beautiful spots on this side of the island however.  Keith and I took the shuttle bus to Ship's Harbor Trail one morning and had a lovely walk along the water and through the evergreen forest that leads up to the ocean.

Walking along the Ocean

Tide pool on our walk

This one had some green seaweed like stuff in it

Another tidal pool

Lighthouses seem to be everywhere in Maine

We also had quite the good fortune to be next to a lobsterman on the dock.  Keith bought 6 lobsters from him right off the boat.  Between those and the several we had purchased at Swan Island ( 2 that were 3 pounders), we have had some really nice lobster dinners.

Our lobster connection

Saturday July 26th we left our first marina in Southwest Harbor and cruised the 6 miles up into Somes Sound.  Somes Sound is a fjard.  This is a deep body of water extending into the land mass with high cliffs along the sides.  Once designated the only fjord in the eastern United States it was changed to a fjard (with an "a") since it does not have cliffs as high or water as deep as the classic fjords of  Norway and Alaska.  It is impressive, however, and does reach 175 feet in depth.  It was chiseled out by glaciers thousands of years ago.

We grabbed a mooring in the harbor at the end of the sound for our stay.  There were several seals lounging on a float in the harbor near where we moored with Southern Style.

This was the smiley seal face

And this was the waving seal (notice the one in the back who appears to be waving)

oh the cuteness!!

We had a nice time in Somes Sound.  The excitement on Saturday evening was just before we left for dinner.  Keith and I were sitting on the back of the boat and we saw a sailboat in the mooring field that appeared to have lost its engine and was drifting with the wind (no sails up) with no control through the mooring field.  There were 3 people on board and they kept running to the sides to push themselves off other boats.  A couple in a dinghy came along-side the sail boat and tried to pull them to a mooring ball.  There was also another sail boat that kept following the distressed boat ( I think in case they started getting too close to running aground on shore.  It took several tries and the dinghy getting its propeller wrapped in the tow line before they finally got them tied to a mooring.  It was quite the show.

Sunday morning we left the sound and cruised to Bar Harbor for a spot at the docks right in downtown.  

This is a view of Cadillac Mount as we are coming around Mount Desert Island

The lighthouse off in the distance had fog hanging over it even through the western portion of the coast was very clear.

This is called "The Spindle".  It is a large rock that is not visible above the water when the tide is higher.  As we passed, the tide was just covering it but the water was hitting it and splashing up.

The Porcupine Islands just off Bar Harbor

As we approached Bar Harbor, there was a private yacht anchored near a cruise ship.  The yacht looked to be about as big as the cruise ship.

We explored downtown Bar Harbor on Sunday afternoon.  There are many shops and restaurants in town.   I found fabric!!  So excited!!  I found some with lobsters, anchors, boats, and some with seagulls.  Fun, fun, fun.  

We have a rental car for two days (Monday and Tuesday July 29th and 30th) so we can do more exploring throughout the Acadia National Park.  Monday morning was very foggy.

This was the view from our dock Monday morning

Once the fog cleared we were off to explore the national park.  My dear husband is a saint.  He carried my tripod and camera gear, and followed me all over the park.  We made a trip to Schoodic Peninsula.  This is the only part of the national park that is on the main land.

Schoodic Peninsula

After spending an hour or so on the peninsula, we drove back onto Mount Desert Island and continued to the top of Cadillac Mountain for a great view down into Bar Harbor.

Bar Harbor and cruise ship anchored there.

We continued along the eastern shore side of the island for some dramatic views

Lots of crashing waves

Classic pebble beach like so many in eastern Maine

There is one sand beach in Acadia

Walking just off the Park Loop Road

"Thunder Hole"

This is a rock formation where the water rushes in the makes a thundering sound.

It was a great day in the park and we ended it with a very nice dinner at The Reading Room of the Bar Harbor Inn.

The view from our table at dinner

Tomorrow is another day to explore.  We plan to bike through Acadia tomorrow.

Castine, Buck's Harbor, and Swans Island

     We have really gotten into the true “downeast” area of Maine now.  Been on mooring balls for several days with no cell service and no internet, so it took me a bit until I could download pictures and post a blog.  It has certainly been worth it however.  What an experience.   

     We left Belfast, Maine Monday morning July 22^nd saying goodbye to our travel companions on “Kiwi III” and “Miss Darlin”.  They will be heading back south, and we plan to continue exploring Maine for another month or so.  

Young's Lobster Pound in Belfast the site of our dinner Sunday night

      Our next stop after Belfast was Castine.  Castine has been the home to people of many nations. Several Native American nations as well as France, Britain, Holland, and colonial America all had settlements in this area over the years.  It has been continuously occupied since the 1620's.  The town was named after Baron Jean Vincent d’Abbadie de St. Castine, a French nobleman and adventurer who established a trading post here in the 1670's.  He married the daughter of the chief of the local tribe of Tarratine Natives, with whom he had at least two sons.  It was also the site of several forts, most notable Fort George, a British fort built in 1779.  The remains of this fort are some earthen walls that the public is still able to explore.

     It was the time between the end of the War of 1812 and the Civil War that were Castine’s most prosperous.  That prosperity came from the sea in the form of fishing, salt, and ship building.  There was a time when nearly 500 fishing vessels could be found in Castine’s harbor.  Over 100 commercial sailing vessels were also built here.  According to one source, in 1850 Castine had the second highest per capita wealth of any city or town in the United States.

     After the Civil War the fishing vessels were replaced with steamboats carrying tourist and summer visitors to Castine's hotels and summer cottages.  Today the town continues to be a place for summer visitors and vacationers.  The Maine Maritime Academy is also located in Castine which offers degrees in engineering, transportation, and management.  The academy’s 13,000 ton, 500 foot long training ship “State of Maine” dominates the harbor.

The ship, State of Maine in Castine harbor (in the rain)

Dyce Head Lighthouse in Castine 

     We had quite a bit of rain while at Castine, but were still able to see the town before it started.  It rained most of the afternoon and even into the next morning.  We left the harbor around 9:00 AM just as the rain stopped.

     Our next stop after Castine was Buck’s Harbor.  We had a mooring ball here.  There is not much at Buck’s Harbor; however by about noon the weather cleared up and was fantastic.  We motored the dinghy around in the afternoon searching for seals and other wildlife.  We covered 9 miles in our dinghy excursion. 

On our dinghy ride looking back into the harbor

Lighthouse at Little Deer Island (seen from the dinghy)

We saw seals

We also saw two eagles, this one let us get close with the dinghy

Sunset in Buck's Harbor as seen from the back of Southern Style

There is one small restaurant at the harbor and the dock master said it was very good.  We decided to give it a try and had the best mussels we have ever eaten.  They were just wonderful.

From Buck’s Harbor we traveled about 23 miles to Swans Island.  This island is truly a lobstermen’s working island.  The lobster traps are so thick that it was challenging to get into the harbor. 

Looks like rainbow sprinkles across the harbor but it is lobster traps.

Swans Island 

The population of the island is around 380 people, most of whom are lobster fishermen/women.  Even the  kids get in on the fishing during the summer. 

Kids checking lobster traps

     There is a lighthouse and some walking trails but that is about all.  Oh, but I forgot to mention ; there are lobsters to purchase through their lobster co-op.  Because this is about as close to direct to consumer as you can get, we bought several lobsters.

Our sink full of lobsters from the Swans Island Lobster Co-op

Southern Style on a mooring ball at Swans Island among the lobster buoys

This is how you pay for your mooring ball.  Notice the plastic soda bottle along side the buoy.  Open and insert money, close top tightly, done.

Thursday we are headed to Mount Desert Island and the Acadia National Park.  I cannot wait.

Belfast, Maine

     Our mooring ball in Camden was a bit uncomfortable on Friday night into Saturday.  There was no wind and when we went to bed for the night it seemed like we would have a nice quiet night for sleeping.  At about 2 AM however, both Keith and I woke up as the boat was rolling pretty significantly from side to side.  Keith got up and looked out.  All was calm as far as wind, but there was a swell coming into our mooring field from the ocean and hitting us just perfectly broadside to make the boat roll.  It lasted until about 4:45 AM when things finally quieted down.  Just long enough to have really interrupted our sleep. 

Saturday morning was beautiful, despite our lack of a good sleep.  We left our mooring about 8 AM for Belfast, Maine.  We arrived in Belfast about 10:30 AM Saturday.

     The Belfast Rail Trail opened in 2016.  It follows a section of the old rail bed from the Belfast and Moosehead Lake Railroad.  This was a historic short-line railroad that operated over 33 miles from Belfast to Burnham beginning in 1871 until 2007.  It meanders along the Passagassawakeag River.  The river's name is a Native American name meaning the place for spearing sturgeon by torchlight.  The trail extends from Belfast about 2.2 miles to City Point where there is a small museum in the old train station and several vintage train cars.  The museum was not open so we suspect it may not have had enough interest/money to keep it open.

View of the Passagassawakeag River from the rail trail

Keith on the trestle bridge of the rail trail

The old Belfast and Moosehead Lake railroad at City Point

     Saturday night the people on the sail boat next to us were outside playing harps and violin.  They played Celtic music and we really enjoyed listening to them.  They were very talented and the evening was just right for relaxing and listening to some soothing music.  At 9:20 PM the town put off fireworks from the pedestrian bridge at the top of the harbor.

Our neighbors playing Celtic music

Getting ready for fireworks as the sun sets.  Sitting on the bow of Southern Style.

Fireworks

Our next several stops will be in smaller towns where we will likely be on a mooring ball or anchoring.  I am not sure what cell or Internet service we will have, but stay tuned.