Ocracoke to Coinjock, NC to Great Bridge, VA

Southern Style left Ocracoke on Saturday morning around 8 AM.  So sad to be leaving, but hopefully we will be back soon.

Southern Style at docks in Ocracoke 

Ferry in Ocracoke 

Ocracoke Lighthouse

You can see the sounds we crossed on the map

We went north up the Pamilico Sound past Hatteras to our east.  There was a mild head wind and waves on the sound were 1-2 feet on our nose.  We decided to run the day at cruise speed around 20 knots.   The Croatan Sound came next with Roanoke Island and the town of Manteo to our east.

Roanoke Island is known for the English settlement founded by Sir Walter Raleigh and John White in the spring of 1587.  John White was an artist and friend of Sir Walter Raleigh and he along with about 117 settlers established a colony on Roanoke Island.  Relations with the native American Indians were very strained at best; and by late in 1587, John White decided to return to England to gather additonal supplies and settlers for the colony.  He left behind the original settlers as well as his daughter and granddaughter, Virginia Dare, who had been born that first summer.  Virginia was the first English child born in America.  Unfortunately because of weather problems and the break-out of war between England and Spain, White's return to the colony was delayed for 3 years.  When he did return in summer of 1590, there was no one left at the settlement site.  The only clue as to the fate of the people was the word Croatan scratched into the wood of a fence stake.  To this day there are many theories about what happened to the colony, however it remains a mystery.  Every summer the Roanoke Historical Society reenacts the events surrounding the disappearance of the colony.  "The Lost Colony" is a popular attractions for locals and vistors to Roanoke Island.

After passing through Croatan Sound we entered Amlbemarle Sound.  The Albemarle was smooth and we had a nice ride past Kitty Hawk which was to our east.  Once across the sound we continued up the North Carolina Cut to Coinjock, NC.  We tied up at the marina in Coinjock and about 30 minutes after arriving, friends Max and Kathy on Air Time pulled up right behind us in their Meridian 540 pilothouse.  We had cocktails on the back of Southern Style and had dinner together with them at the restaurant there.  Keith and I had the 16oz. prime rib of course.  It did not disappoint.

Coinjock Marina

Air Time right behind Southern Style

Max and Kathy were off Sunday morning heading back to Maryland for the summer.  Keith and I left about an hour after them.  We were not going very far Sunday.  We came out of Coinjock and across the Currituck Sound to Great Bridge, VA.

North Landing Swing Bridge (WE definitely do not fit under this)

We caught the noon opening

Southern Style will have some work done at Great Bridge,VA on her stablizers.  While Keith manages the work on the boat, I am getting a rental car and doing some business and visiting in both Raleigh, NC and Lancaster, PA for the week.  We hope to be back to our trip north with Southern Style by about April 30th.

Making the most of our time on Ocreacoke

Wednesday morning was nice with only light wind for once.  As Keith and I were having coffee on the back of Southern Style we noticed the small boat that ferries people from Ocracoke to Portsmouth Island over by the car ferry docks.  Keith walked over to see if they had room for two more and they did.  We quickly threw together a small beach bag and headed over to Portsmouth for a few hours.  This uninhabited island just south of Ocracoke is one of our favorite places for shelling.  With the wind and churned up surf the last several days we were hopeful to find some Scotch Bonnets and boy did we.  It was our largest booty of the elusive shells yet with 52 whole shells found.  What a great day and perfect for walking on the beach.

Portsmouth Island, no crowds here

  

This ATON (aid to navigation) did not make it through the winter storms

It was washed up on the beach

Our Scotch Bonnets (State Shell of NC)

Because the weather was so nice on Wednesday, we decided to have hamburgers and hot dogs for dinner.  The perfect ending to a beach day.

Thursday the wind had returned "AGAIN".  Much of the day was spent inside.  A take-out lunch from Edwardo's, a local Mexican food truck, is always yummy.  Best burritos bar none.

Eduardo's

  We also got 200 local oysters from a connection Russ introduced us to.  They were delivered in the afternoon and Thursday evening in the shelter of Southern Styles cockpit Keith and I had oysters on the half shell from the swim platform.  YUM.  These were literally pulled out of the water only an hour ago.

Friday was a stellar weather day (do you get the sense that the weather has been a bit up and down).  Keith and I had brunch at the Pony Island Restaurant and then walked Springer's Point and the nature trial at Hammock Point.

Pamlico Sound from the nature trail

 The afternoon was spent on the boat enjoying every drop of sun and warmth we could and then off to Russ and Michelle's for some authentic Pad Thai for dinner.  We need to return their SUV which they lent us for the week.  Pengi is sorry to have to give it back.  He got spoiled having wheels for the week.

Pengi and his wheels

Gale Warning

It is a good thing we got into Ocracoke when we did.  As pretty as Saturday was, Sunday brought quite a change.  The day started nice enough but the wind was building.  We had appetizers and "Squeezers" on Southern Style Sunday evening with friends Russ, Michelle, and Larry.  "Squeezers" are a local drink that mixes vodka with fresh squeezed grapefruit juice.  Believe us, they are delicious!

                                                    Larry making "Squeezers"

Our guests left around 8:00 PM and the wind began to howl.  Sunday night was particularly brutal with gale warnings posted for the area.  We got up around 3AM just to check the lines and were seeing sustained wind at 30-40 mph with occasional gusts of 50-57 mph.  Offshore waves were predicted to be 9-13 feet.  Hard rain also came through over night Sunday.  Southern Style did well as the wind was pushing us off the dock and we had extra lines out.

                                          Wind at 43 mph on Monday morning around noon

                                     Even the ducks were hunkered down beside Southern Style

Russ and Michelle were kind enough to lend us their SUV while we are here on the island for the week.  What a luxury.  So just to get out a bit Monday afternoon Keith and I took a ride out to the pony pen on the north end of the island.  (See blog from October regarding the Ocracoke ponies).

                                                            Two Ocracoke ponies

The wind was still blowing but slightly less (around 20-30 mph sustained).  We walked out to the beach near the north end of the island.  The ocean was very kicked up.

                                                                     

The sand gets blown across the road here just like snow up north.  They have to use front end loaders to keep the road open in weather like this.

  Blowing sand across Hwy 12

                                                         Loader clearing sand off the road

Sunday dinner was fresh yellow fin tuna from the fish market and fig cake, yum (Again, see October blog).  Monday overnight the temperature started falling.  When we woke up Tuesday morning it was only 48 degrees and still a hefty wind, although much improved (15-20 sustained).   If this weather keeps up we may never get off this sand bar (which would not be all bad).

Our Happy Place (Charleston, SC to Ocracoke, NC)

Keith and I arrived in Charleston, South Carolina around 3PM on Thursday April 12th.  Southern Style was out on the mega dock at the City Marina.  We were excited to meet up with Lacey and Davis Toney for dinner.  Lacey was able to come to the boat for a cocktail before driving us to dinner where we met up with her husband Davis.  He came directly from his work to the restaurant.  They picked a cool spot called "Taco Boy".  The fish tacos were great.

                                                                 Taco Boy

                                                             
                                                                 Gail and Keith

Lacey and Davis

Lacey and Davis seem to be settling into married bliss quite well.  So glad we could see them during our short overnight in Charleston.

Friday April 13th we left Charleston at first light for an offshore run to Morehead City, North Carolina.  This was our only semi good weather window for an offshore run.  After getting out of the Charleston inlet we set the throttles at about 1967 rpm's and did not touch them for about 10 hours (some 250 miles).  We slowed down as we got into the Morehead City Turning Basin after coming in the inlet at Beaufort, North Carolina.  The seas were on the beam (hitting us on the side of the boat) all day and the first mate (Birthday girl Gail) was queezy but I survived.  If I had to do it all over I would still run off shore as we got to North Carolina faster and that is what we both wanted. We had "Carolina on Our Mind"  and especially Ocracoke.  In spite of the uncomfortable ride, we still went to Floyd's for my birthday dinner.  I had a great Jerk Mahi with Coconut Shrimp.

After a really good and hard nights sleep, we departed Morehead City Yacht Basin Saturday morning around 7:45AM and headed for Ocracoke, our very favorite place.  We ran the boat slowly through Adam's Creek but otherwise we were hammer down.  The Pamlico Sound was a gem (slick cam as they say on Ocracoke) and we arrived at the National Park Service Docks around 11:00 AM.

                                   Southern Style in Ocracoke at the park service docks

Good friend Russ Reynolds was at the park service docks to greet us as we pulled in.  This so feels like home.  Lunch at SmacNally's and then over to Russ and Michelle Reynolds to see their new house.  They just moved in officially 2 weeks ago.  It is a beautiful home and their lot has fantastic views.  As much as we like our home on Southern Style there was a bit of envy.

                                          View of the Pamlico Sound from Russ and Michelle's

Russ and Michelle had us for dinner along with another couple we have gotten to know, Larry and Stephanie Ihle.  Their first entertaining to christen their new home.  One of our "bestest" furry friends Whiff was also present.
                                                       
                                                            Whiff  (Russ and Michell's Pup)                             

Keith and I are hoping to spend the week here in Ocracoke then leave for Coinjock, NC next weekend.  We will keep you up to date on the trouble we get into here on Ocracoke during the week.  We already have a connection getting us oysters for later this week and plans for a "Squeezers" party Sunday evening.

Brunswick, Georgia to Charleston, South Carolina

The Loop continues.  We arrived in Brunswick, Georgia Sunday night at the Brunswick Landing Marina downtown.  We had a nice dinner at Basil Sunday night.  The sushi was great.

We also had crab stuffed salmon and sea bass for dinner

We left Brunswick around 10:30AM Monday morning heading to our anchorage for the night.  Gray skies and calling for rain showers all day.  It was not a pretty day, but we managed.

                                                  Cargo ship on Brunswick waterfront

                                                                    Tugs on the waterfront 

We.entered Buckhead Creek Monday night for our anchorage.  This would position us to be able to cross some shallow spots at Hell Gate Georgia in the morning during the mid-tide.  There were two bald eagles along the creek on our way into the anchorage.  Weather unfortunately very rainy and cloudy.

The anchorage was really nice with a wide, deep creek that was very quiet.  The holding on the bottom was good and the anchor came up pretty clean.   It was a shame the weather was not nice.  These types of spots are wonderful to anchor and relax, maybe fish or put the kayak in for a paddle but the weather just did not cooperate for any of these activities.  It drizzled and was cold to boot.

Tuesday morning was ugly and overcast AGAIN.  We left Buckhead Creek in Georgia going through Hell Gate and onto Thunderbolt, Georgia which is in the Savannah area.  We got into the dock early and were able to catch up on some laundry, cleaning, and quilting.  I am working to finish what I call the “Purple Monster”.  I drafted this pattern several years ago and put the top together, but never got it quilted while we still were in the house.  Working on it on board Southern Style is a little challenging.

                                                      The Purple Monster

  

Wednesday morning we topped off our fuel tank with about 500 gallons of diesel in Thunderbolt as they had the lowest price for miles.  We left the dock around 8AM and headed to Port Royal Landing in Beaufort, South Carolina. 

                                                  Ship coming up Savannah River behind us

We stayed at Port Royal Landing instead of the downtown docks since we had just spent time in Beaufort on our trip south in the fall.  Just overnighting this time and leaving EARLY, EARLY, EARLY for Charleston on Thursday.  The sunrise was worth getting up at 6AM.  This is from our starboard side of the boat looking out over the Beaufort River and the high-rise bridge.  Lines were off by 6:45AM and we were north bound.

                               

                                        Lady Finger swing bridge coming through Beaufort,SC

                                      This is St. Helena Sound Thursday morning

The tide is low and you can see all the mud and oyster beds.  These are covered with water and not visible at high tide.

    Coming into Charleston about 2:30PM with the Ravenel Bridge in the background.

Wheels Up

Southern Style has left Palm Coast and is heading north.  We pulled out of Palm Coast Friday morning in nice sunny weather and cruised north into northern Florida. 

                                     This is our "Looper" flag on the front of Southern Style
                                        American Great Loop Cruisers Association (AGLCA)

                                             Passing the St. Augustine Lighthouse

                                                       

                                   Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine.  We fit under without an                                                                                           opening by about 12 inches

                                                       
This fort is in St. Augustine facing out toward the St. Augustine inlet.  It was constructed by the Spanish in 1672 when Florida was part of the Spanish Empire.  It is the oldest masonry structure in the continental United States.

Castillo de San Marcos

                                                     Flag of the Spanish Empire over the fort.

Just north of the Jacksonville area we anchored for the night in a nice spot just off the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).  There were three other boats also in the anchorage, but it was nice and quiet.

                                                                     Anchorage Friday

Saturday morning we left the anchorage at sun-up and cruised into Georgia.  The weather was to deteriorate during the late afternoon and so we got into our next anchorage around 2 PM.  This was great timing, as we got everything set and "hunkered down" and the rain moved in about an hour later around 3 PM.  Luckily the rain and wind were not too bad and it was over just before sunset so we got to sit on the back and watch the dolphin swim around the boat for the last hour of sunlight.

                                 Clouds breaking up Saturday evening in our anchorage

Sunday morning was relaxing as we did not leave our anchorage until 10 AM.  This allowed us to be traveling during the rising tide.  Much of the area in southern Georgia along the ICW can be quite shallow, therefore traveling with a rising tide can be very helpful.  The weather front that came through on Saturday brought cool temps.  Sunday temperatures were only in the 50s and it remained cloudy all day. 

We passed the Kings Bay Naval Station near St. Mary's Georgia. This submarine base is the US Atlantic Fleet's home base for the Navy's ballistic missile nuclear submarines armed with Trident missiles.  The base is about 16,000 acres.  The Trident Refit Facility (TRF) is the largest portion of the base.  It provides quality industrial-level support for the overhaul, modernization, and repair of Trident submarines.  It also furnishes global submarine supplies and spare parts support.   The TRF has the largest covered drydock in the world.  There is also the Trident Training Facility on site with 520,000 square feet of classroom and office space.  This facility trains sailors in the skills necessary to operate and maintain the Trident submarine and its systems.

            This contraption we have been told is involved in the demagnetizing (degaussing) of                                                            submarines and steel hulled surface warships.

                                                             
                                                               Two navy ships at Kings Bay

We docked in Brunswick, GA at Brunswick Landing Marina Sunday night. 

So we are underway/making way as they say.  The plan is to move fairly quickly to North Carolina.  We would like to spend some time in Ocracoke if at all possible before having to be in Virginia at Atlantic Yacht Basin to have some work done on Southern Style.  Stay tuned.