A Bonus Trip to Portsmouth Island

On Thursday of this week, Keith and I were able to get back to Portsmouth Island.  This 13 mile long island just to the south of Ocracoke is one of our favorite beaches.  Since the only access is by small boat or a tiny, private car ferry (the ferry really only takes fishermen a few at a time across to the island), there are very few people on the island and the beaches have great shells.   There are no vacation homes, businesses, roads or much of anything other than a few National Park Service buildings at the far southern end for camping.  At the north end closest to Ocracoke there is the remains of Portsmouth Village. 

This village is maintained by the National Park Service and some of the descendants of those who once lived there for historical and educational purposes.   Portsmouth was once a large and very important seaport.  It had a deep and easily accessible inlet making the island ideal for commerce.  It was the largest European settlement on the outer banks with businessmen, merchants,  and fishermen.  By 1850, 66% of North Carolina's imported and exported good moved through Portsmouth.  Goods from inland would be brought to Portsmouth on small boats and transferred to large ocean going sailing vessels to head to New York or Boston.  Goods coming into Portsmouth from abroad were taken off the large ocean going boats and put on smaller vessels to transit the sounds and move inland. 

This successful seaport began to suffer around the time of the Civil War.  Union forces patrolled and targeted Portsmouth because of its importance to shipping.  In 1846 a hurricane opened a new, deep inlet at Hatteras Island while the one at Portsmouth was slowly starting to close and shoal in.  The shipping industry all but abandoned Portsmouth and by 1956 only 17 hardy islanders remained.  There were no stores or supplies and conveniences were very limited.  People continued to leave the island and in 1971 the last two residents, Marion Babb and Elma Dixon, who had lived on the island for decades were convinced to leave.

Keith and I love going to Portsmouth because there are so few people on the island at any time.  Just campers and fishermen.  After a breakfast at Ocracoke Coffee Shop we hooked up with an ATV tour out of Ocracoke to go over to Portsmouth.  We had a blast.

Our sugar high before departing for Portsmouth

Our chariots await

Heading out toward the beach

13 miles of beach almost to ourselves

After driving the beach, we spent a little time in the remains of the village. They have a few buildings open with exhibits about what life was like over the history of the island.  For the most part it is a little like a ghost town that time forgot.

Cue the spooky music

The weather was perfect and our ride along the beach really fun.  We also found several more Scotch bonnets and some additional shells, which is always a bonus.  This trip made for a really nice day.